A: In most cases no.  Most duct cleaning systems are ineffective at best and can severely damage ductwork at worse.  In most cases, duct cleaning will make dust problems worse. Excessive dust is generally related to leaking supply and return ducts and undersized return airs.

2.   What is “SEER”?

A: Seasonal Energy Efficiency Rating is a government  contrived formula that determines how quickly and how efficiently an air conditioner lowers the temperature in a specified area in a specified time frame.

3.  Should I buy based on SEER?

A: While it is nice to purchase a high SEER system, proper sizing of equipment and proper installation procedures are much more important. A properly sized and installed 13 SEER system can easily out perform an improperly sized and installed 21 SEER system. While SEER is an important value to know, it is not the most important factor in a climate like Houston, where humidity removal is paramount.

4.   Is one brand better than another?

A:  In most instances, no.  The installation procedures and the quality of the contractor are most important.  Each brand has it’s own short-comings and it’s on strong points.  Most equipment uses the same basic components, such as compressors, motors and electrical components.  Different products are more appropriate for different situations and are determined on a case-by-case basis.

5.  How many supply and returns should I have?

A:  Every house and every system is different. This is something that must be determined based on needs or design criteria.

6.  How do I know if a variable speed blower is right for me?

A: A variable speed blower is always beneficial in a humid climate. It will improve humidity control and indoor air quality significantly over a standard blower motor.

7.  What does it mean when my outside unit (condenser) has ice on it?

A: It means the system is either low on refrigerant, has low air flow, or a combination of these.

8.  What is the difference between R-22 and R-410A?

A:  Basically, R-22 is being phased out . R-410A is the refrigerant that is been chosen to replace R-22.  Each has it’s positive and negative aspects. R-22 was a very “forgiving” refrigerant as far as installation procedures are concerned. Meaning a poorly trained technician using minimal skills and knowledge could install equipment without too much detriment to the equipment longevity. R-410A is a very “unforgiving” refrigerant. It requires specific procedures during installation and service to provide efficient and long lasting service of the new equipment.

9.  Which is better – hard pipe duct work or flex duct?

A: Rigid duct work is always preferable because it has less resistance to air flow, but any duct work will work well if properly designed and installed. Unfortunately, most contractors do not take the time to design or properly install any type of duct work – especially flex.

10. What should I look for in a contractor?

A:  Licensed and insured, NATE certified technicians; but more basically, one that will take the time to ask questions, answer questions, address your concerns and offer solutions to solve your problems.

Your family spends a major portion of their time indoors, living in an environment provided by an air condition and heating system that, in most cases, is not designed for the Houston environment.

The average a/c system in the Houston area degrades the quality of the air in your home. The average ductwork in a home leaks from 15 – 30% of the air it processes. This drastically reduces system capacity and efficiency. It also introduces unwanted dust and pollutants into your living environment.

Help save the environment while keeping cool. Running your home’s AC unit during the summer will not only keep you comfortable, but it can also help save the environment if it contains the latest friendly refrigerant.According to the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency), most air conditioners use refrigerant R-22, which adds to the problem of global climate change. So, when it comes time to decide how to replace your outdated air conditioning unit, select one that uses eco-friendly R-410A.

R-410A is a new environmentally safe liquid coolant that makes air conditioning possible. It was developed as an alternative to R-22, also known as Freon, which will be phased out in the near future along with other ozone depleting chemicals.

R-410A is economically and environmentally beneficial, which makes it a smart choice for future air conditioning units,” stated an industry leader. “If someone is considering a new air conditioning system today, they should think about switching over to R410A to help avoid future costs associated with servicing the old R-22 systems.”

As of January 2010, R-22 will only be allowed for use in servicing existing equipment, not in the production of new equipment. Furthermore, as of January 1, 2020, chemical manufacturers will no longer be able to produce R-22 at all, leaving consumers with no choice but to look to alternatives.

Additional benefits of installing an R-410A unit:

• R-410A uses a synthetic lubricant that is more soluble so it can mix and circulate more efficiently to keep the compressor and other moving parts lubricated, reducing wear and extending their life.
• It incorporates smaller, heavier duty “scroll-type” compressors that are quieter and operate with less damaging vibration than older compressors which operate on R-22.
• Compressors with R-410A run cooler, reducing the risk of burnout due to overheating.
• Economically beneficial, it allows higher heat transfer than R-22, which results in a more efficient operation.
• R-410A does not contain chlorine, therefore it is not damaging to the ozone layer.
• The price of current AC unit repairs may increase as R-22 supplies dwindle over the next 20 years.

Although R-410A units are more expensive than units that run on R-22, tax refunds may be available for buying the energy efficient product. The extra money you spend investing on these new systems, the more you are investing in your future. Contact Al Fowler at 713.620.8307 if you have more questions regarding this new R-410A refrigerant.

With seasonal allergies becoming commonplace across the country, don’t be caught this fall with the runny nose, itchy eyes or nasal congestion that plagued you last year. “Breathing clean air may be the best solution for allergies,” said Al Fowler, of HVAC-AL. “More than 50 million Americans suffer from seasonal allergies making it especially important to take appropriate precautions inside your home.”From late August through October, at least one in five Americans will have immune system overreactions to irritants in the environment, which is why it is important to stay informed on ways to reduce the chances of being exposed to irritants both indoors and outdoors.

Follow these simple tips to reduce the amount of pollutants inside your home:

• Keep your home and car windows closed
• Vacuum and dust – wipe your hand across your ceiling fan blade to see how much dust is being distributed through the air
• Change air filters on your heating and cooling equipment often – most manufactures recommend once a month depending on dust levels
• Clean humidifiers and AC units – dirty units create a breeding ground for mold and bacteria
• Reduce the use of products like aerosol, room deodorizer, perfumes and household cleaning products

These are some precautionary measures to help you avoid allergies:

• Stay inside during peak pollen times, usually between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m.
• Monitor local pollen counts and stay indoors as much as possible when pollen counts are high
• Stay indoors when humidity is high and on days with high wind, when dust and pollen are more likely to be in the air

If allergy symptoms are particularly troublesome, talk to your doctor to find out about treatment options available both over-the-counter and by prescription. When you do what you can to alleviate the frustration of fall allergies, you can get back out there and enjoy all that this season has to offer.

Central Heating System Facts:

• A furnace works to keep a home warm in the winterand plays a critical part in the operation ofan air conditioning system.
• Furnaces produce heat through the combustion of natural gas in the furnace’s burner. The heat produced from this process then passes through a heat exchanger.Air fromyour home’s return air ducts is blown over the heat exchanger,thus warmingthe air.
• The furnace’s blower then blows the warmed air into the ductwork, whichcarries and disperses the warmed air throughout the home.
• During warmer months, the blower inside a furnace continues to circulate return air throughout the home–only this time, the return air has been cooled by being blown over the indoor coil portion of the home’s split-system air conditioning system. The condensing coil is typically installed on top of the furnace.

Central Heating System Benefits:

• Indoor warmthany time it is required.
• Energy efficiency -The efficiency of a furnace can be determined by its AFUE–or Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency. The minimum efficiency level for furnaces currently manufactured in the U.S. is 80% AFUE. A rating of “80% AFUE” means that for every dollar you spend heating your home; 80 cents are actually applied to the generation ofwarmth.Compared to many of the 60% AFUE furnaces in older homes, 80% AFUE furnaces are a significant improvement. However, for enhanced energy efficiency, you may wish to consider a 95+% AFUE furnace, such as Amana’s line of 96% AFUE Furnaces.
• Cleaner air -As your HVAC system draws air out of various rooms in the house through return air ducts, the air is pulled through an airfilter, which removes airborne particles such as dust and lint. Sophisticated filters may remove microscopic pollutants, as well. The filtered air is then routed to air supply ductwork that carries it back to rooms. Whenever the HVAC system is running, this cycle repeats continually, constantly filtering and cleaning the air in your home.
• This cleaning process improves with the installation of a variable-speed furnace. Variable-speed furnaces use variable-speed blowers, which shiftbetween several speeds.These furnaces will run longer at a low speed, which causes them to filter the indoor air more frequently.
• And remember – because the furnace plays an importantrole in the operation of the air conditioner, its variable-speed blower helps maintain both a consistent indoor temperature and improved air quality year-round.
• Possible Tax Credit** -As part of the Energy Policy Act of 2005, the U.S. government has made a provision for tax credits of up to $200 for homeowners who install furnaces with an efficiency of 95% or greater between Jan. 1, 2006, and Dec. 31, 2007. Consumers should discuss these tax credits with a tax professional to see if they qualify.  **As of 2009, there are now additional tax credit options available for new system installations.

• Consumers seeking to replace an existing system often choose a new unit with equal or higher efficiency ratings compared to their previous system. Replacing a unit that is 10- to 15-years-old may reduce natural gas or electricity costs by 30 to 50%.
• Contact HVAC-AL at 713.620.8307 to help determine initial cost, warranty protection, service options, maintenance options, operating cost and proper installation.

Air Conditioning Facts:

• The typical central air conditioning system is a split system, with an outdoor air conditioning, or “compressor bearing unit” and an indoor coil, which is usually installed on top of the furnace in the home.
• Using electricity as its power source, the compressor pumps refrigerant through the system to gather heat and moisture from indoors and remove it from the home.
• Heat and moisture are removed from the home when warm air from inside the home is blown over the cooled indoor coil. The heat in the air transfers to the coil, thereby “cooling” the air.
• The heat that has transferred to the coil is then “pumped” to the exterior of the home, while the cooled air is pumped back inside, helping to maintain a comfortable indoor temperature.
• Central air conditioning can also be provided through a package unit or a heat pump.

Central Air Conditioning – Benefits:

• Indoor comfort during warm weather - Central air conditioning helps keep your home cool and reduces humidity levels.
• Cleaner air – As your central air conditioning system draws air out of various rooms in the house through return air ducts, the air is pulled through an air filter, which removes airborne particles such as dust and lint. Sophisticated filters may remove microscopic pollutants, as well. The filtered air is then routed to air supply ductwork that carries it back to rooms.

Quieter operation – Because the compressor bearing unit is located outside the home, the indoor noise level from its operation is much lower than that of a free-standing air conditioning unit.

Why should I purchase a new air conditioning system?

Efficiency and cost savings

• If your existing system is old, in need of repair or simply inefficient, purchasing a new unit, one which can be as much as 60% more efficient than a system purchased just 10 years ago, can offer long-term benefits.
• Rather than continuing to pay for ongoing maintenance and costly monthly bills, invest in a new system today that will save you money for years to come.

I am NATE Certified and owner of Airedale Air Heating & A/C, inc. dba HVAC-AL. I’ve been in the HVAC business for over 37 years. In that time, I’ve learned that most consumers don’t know the difference between what makes a good efficient heating or cooling system and a bad one.  In fact, most people have so many misconceptions about heating and cooling equipment that I’ve decided to offer this consumer education message so when you select a heating or cooling contractor, you can make an informed intelligent decision.

In just a moment, I’ll share with you some costly misconceptions about heating and cooling equipment. I’ll also offer some recommendations. I’ll give you questions you should ask a contractor before you invite him into your home.

If you’d like to speak with me personally, please feel free to call me at 713.620.8307.

MISCONCEPTION #1:  As long as it’s running its O.K.

Not necessarily.  Equipment often appears to be running fine but may be on the brink of failure.  Furnaces can have cracked heat exchangers and appear to run properly.  However, they are leaking carbon monoxide, setting up a very dangerous situation.  Air conditioners will run low on refrigerant but have to run harder and longer.  This can eventually lead to equipment failure.  Just because it runs when you want it doesn’t mean there’s not a serious problem.

MISCONCEPTION #2: Changing filters is all the maintenance you need.

That’s a good start but more should be done.  Changing and keeping filters clean is critical to maintaining the proper airflow through your equipment.  However, there are numerous things that should be done regularly.  The blower should be inspected and lubed.  Refrigerant level and thermocouples checked. Burners adjusted and cleaned, You see it’s more than just changing filters.

MISCONCEPTION #3: It’s normal for some rooms to be hotter or cooler than others.

NO. Each room should maintain proper temperature.  With a properly designed air distribution system all rooms should be comfortable.  A properly designed system will have different size ducts and registers serving each room.  The ducts and registers should only be identical if the rooms are identical and that is unusual.  The ducts should also have adjustable dampers for adjusting the airflow to each area.

MISCONCEPTION #4:  Indoor air quality is not a problem at my house.

Not true. All houses have indoor air quality problems – they just differ in severity.  All houses have some problems with dust.  It is usually most noticeable right after you’ve dusted or when company is coming over. In the springtime, pollen can be a big problem.  If you have pets, there’s pet hair and dander that can get in your air.  There are also fumes from painting, hairspray, cooking, and who knows what else.  Plastic in your house is always giving off molecules as it sets up.  If you have allergies, all these problems feel amplified by your sneezing and runny nose.  All houses have indoor air pollution, some are just worst than others.

MISCONCEPTION #5: Service contracts are a waste of money.

No. Regular service is critical to making your equipment last a long time and run efficiently.  Regular service also can detect small problems before they become more serious.  No one wants their system to fail on the hottest or coldest day of the year.  Regular servicing helps keep your system in tiptop shape and pays for itself in the long run.

MISCONCEPTION #6: The company that offers the lowest price is the company you should hire.

Maybe – but not always.  Here are a few points to consider—-

POINT #1: The price you see offered may not be for the services you want performed.  Before you select a company, decide what you want to accomplish.

Price is usually an indication of quality.  More efficient equipment costs more.  Better trained service people cost more.  Reliable service and products cost more.  You don’t buy the cheapest car, clothes or foods.  Don’t let price be the deciding factor when choosing a contractor.

POINT #2: The price you see advertised may not be the price you pay.

Many homeowners have learned that the low price they saw advertised was not the amount they were charged.  Be sure and ask what other fees might be incurred.

If you are thinking about having your heating and/or cooling system serviced or replaced, I offer these four recommendations:

Recommendation #1: Make a commitment to yourself to get your equipment serviced.  The longer you wait, the sooner it’ll wear out. Seriously consider a service contract.  Regular service will extend the life of your equipment and help maintain its efficiency.

Recommendation #2: Do something about indoor air pollution. Maintain good quality air in your home.  This begins by regularly changing your filter.  Next, consider an electronic air cleaner or media filter. In some instances, duct cleaning and/or sanitizing may be beneficial. Indoor air quality can also be improved with the introduction of a fresh air intake or ERV.

Recommendation #3:  Ask questions. The way you learn about a company is to ask specific questions and listen carefully to the answers.  Here are a few questions I suggest you ask:

1.  Are you licensed?

2.  Are you certified to recover air conditioning refrigerant?

3.  Can you give me references of recent customers?

4.  Do you offer financing or accept credit cards?

5.  What training have you had in the last year?

6.  Are you a member of any trade associations and, if so, which ones?

7.  Can you be reached in an emergency?

8.  Do you guarantee/warranty your work?  If yes, how long?

Recommendation #4:  Once you’re satisfied that you are working with an honest, competent professional, invite him into your home and ask for a free equipment assessment.

By following these recommendations, you’ll gain all the information you need to make an informed, intelligent decision.  If you want cheap equipment or service, many companies in the phone book can help you.

BUT, if you want great service by a well-qualified contractor, who can service your equipiment completely and thoroughly – removing bacteria, fungus, chemicals, pollens, and tobacco products from your system and indoor air, then I invite you to call me.

I’ll be happy to answer your questions and come into your home and give you a free equipment assessment and proposal/quotation – without obligation of any kind. TO REACH ME CALL 713.620.8307.

A

AC (Alternating Current) – A type of current where the polarity is perpetually reversing, causing the directional flow in a circuit to reverse at regular intervals.

ACCA – Air Conditioning Contractors of America.

Acoustical – Relating to sound, the science of sound, or a sense of hearing.

AFUE – Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency. A measurement used to rate furnace efficiencies by dividing the ratio of heat output by heat input.

AGA – American Gas Association, Inc.

Air Conditioner – A device that changes humidity levels, temperature or quality of air.

Air Flow Volume – Measured in cubic feet per minute (cfm), this is the amount of air circulated in a space.

Air Handler – Parts of a system including the fan-blower, filter and housing.

ARI – Air Conditioning and Refrigeration Institute.

ASHRAE – American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Engineers.

B

BTU – British Thermal Unit. Measures the amount of heat required to raise or lower the temperature of one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit.

BTUh – British Thermal Units per hour.

Burner – The device that facilitates the combustion of air and gas.

Burner Orifice – The opening in the burner through which the gas or fuel passes prior to combustion.

C

Capacity – HVAC capacity is the output produced by the heating or cooling unit and is measured in BTUs per hour.

Celsius – A temperature scale that registers the freezing point of water as 0° and the boiling point as 100° under normal atmospheric pressure.

CFM – Cubic Feet per Minute. A measurement of airflow volume.

Charging a System – Adding coolant, or refrigerant, to an HVAC system.

Compressor – A pump that increases the pressure of gas.

Condensate – Vapor that is turned into a liquid as its temperature is lowered.

Condenser Coil – Also an outdoor coil. A device that removes heat from the refrigerant, allowing the refrigerant to be converted from vapor to liquid.

Condenser Fan – A fan that passes air over the condenser coil to facilitate the removal of heat from the refrigerant.

CSA – Canadian Standards Association.

D

DC – Direct Current. A type of electrical current that only flows in one direction.

Damper – Found at the exit point of ductwork, this plate usually contains grates that can be opened or closed to control the flow of air into a zone.

Degree-Day – Calculated by subtracting the average outdoor temperature for an area from 65º Fahrenheit. This measurement is used to estimate the amount of heating or cooling a home or building will need.

Dehumidifier – A device that removes humidity, or moisture, from the air.

Diffuser – A grille over an air supply duct with vanes that distribute the discharging air in a specific pattern or direction.

DOE – Department of Energy.

Downflow Furnace – A furnace with an intake on the top and an air discharge at the bottom.

Drain Pan – Also a condensate pan. As the refrigerant vapor is liquefied, the drain pan collects the condensate and funnels it to the drain line.

Dry Bulb Temperature – The temperature as measured without the consideration of humidity.

Ductwork – A network of metal, fiberboard or flexible material flowing throughout a space which delivers air from an HVAC unit to the respective zones of a home or office.

E

EER – Energy Efficiency Ratio.

EPA – Environmental Protection Agency.

Expansion Valve – A valve that meters the levels of refrigerant through a temperature or pressure control.

Evaporator Coil – Also an indoor coil. A device that is designed to absorb heat in the air in order to change the liquid refrigerant that flows through it into a vapor.

F

Fahrenheit – A temperature scale in which water freezes at 32 degrees and boils at 212 degrees at normal atmospheric pressure.

Fan – A device that creates air flow.

Filter – A device that acts like a strainer to remove dirt or undesired particles.

Flue – A vent that removes the byproducts of combustion from a furnace.

Furnace – The major component in heating a home. A device that facilitates the combustion of fuel and air to create heat.

Fuse – A delicate metal strip connecting two parts of an electrical circuit. This strip breaks, or melts, in the event of excess electrical charge, breaking the electrical circuit.

G

GAMA – Gas Appliance Manufacturers Association.

H

Heat Exchanger – A device through which heat is transferred to a cold area or surface.

Heat Gain – The amount of heat added or created in a designated area.

Heating Coil – A coil that acts as a heat source for a heating system.

Heat Loss – The amount of heat subtracted from a designated area.

Heat Pump – A device used for either the heating or cooling of a space by transferring heat between two reservoirs.

Heat Transfer – Moving heat from one location to another.

HSPF – Heating Seasonal Performance Factor. This factor rates the efficiency of the heating portion of the heat pump.

Humidifier – A device that adds humidity, or moisture, to the air.

Humidistat – The device that measures humidity and turns the humidifier on and off.

Humidity – Dampness in the air caused by water vapor.

HVAC – Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning.

I

Ignition – Elevating the temperature of a substance to the point of causing a combustion reaction.

K

Kilowatt (kW) – 1,000 watts.

L

Latent Heat – A type of heat that when added to an area produces an effect other than an increase in temperature.

M

Media – The fine material of a filter that traps dirt, dust, mildew or bacteria.

N

NATE – North American Technicians Excellance

NEC – National Energy Council / National Electric Code.

NEMA – National Electrical Manufacturing Association.

O

Orifice – An opening or hole.

P

Package Unit – A heating and cooling system contained in one outdoor unit.

PSI – Pounds per square inch.

PSIA – Pounds per square inch, absolute.

PSIG – Pounds per square inch gauge.

PVC – Polyvinyl chloride; a type of plastic.

R

Reciprocating Compressor – A type of compressor used in cooling systems to compress refrigerant by using a piston action.

Refrigerant – A chemical that condenses from a vapor to liquid and, in the process, decreases in temperature.

Refrigerant Charge – The amount of refrigerant in a system.

S

SEER – Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. A rating system developed by the U.S. Government to indicate the efficiency level of cooling equipment.

Self-contained System – A package unit.

Sensible Heat – Heat added or subtracted that causes a change in temperature.

Sensor – A device that reacts to a change in conditions.

Split System – An outdoor unit combined with an indoor unit.

T

Thermostat – Sensors that monitor and control the output of an HVAC system.

Thermostatic Expansion Valve – A device that creates a constant evaporator temperature.

Ton – One ton is 12,000 BTUs per hour.

U

Upflow Furnace – A furnace that pulls in air from the bottom and releases it through the top.

V

Vacuum – A space where the pressure is significantly below that of standard atmospheric pressure.

Volt – A unit of electro-motive force.

Voltage – The force pushing electrical current along wires and cables.

W

Watt – The unit of electrical power equal to the flow of one amp at a potential difference of one volt.

Wet Bulb Thermometer – A thermometer that measures the relative humidity in the air.

Z

Zoning – A system that divides a home, office or space into different regions in order to better control the temperature and effectiveness of a heating and cooling system.